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Old 05-29-2007, 06:56 AM
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Default Stripped Oil Plug

Hi, I have a 1993 Toyota Tercel, 4-speed manual transmission, 136K miles, carb., no ABS brakes, rack and pinion steering.

I took my car into the Toyota dealer on Friday for a regular oil change. When I went back to pick up the car, the service associate told me the drain plug had been stripped and they could not replace the drain bolt. Therefore, the car had no oil in it and could not be driven. The only remedy was to replace the oil pan. The part was $90.00, the labor was $225.00 (so they said). The service associate told me they could not determine what caused the drain plug to be stripped? It may have been that the technician who worked on it previously may have jammed the bolt into the drain plug or tightened it too much, which would have caused it to be stripped (the previous oil change was not done at a Toyota dealership).

My questions are:
Is what the Toyota service associate told me true? Is it necessary to replace the entire oil pan in these situations? Is there no other remedy? Should the Toyota dealership assume some of the blame since I never had a problem with the oil pan prior to them working on it?

Is it reasonable to demand that the Toyota dealership grant some kind of relief with the pricing since my car was running fine before I brought it to them?

If the Toyota dealership is not responsible, is there any way to show that the shop who changed the oil previously is liable?

I would appreciate a response as soon as possible. I was in the process of getting rid of the car anyway so it kind of stings that I had to pay over $400 just to keep it running when all I wanted was a $17.00 oil change.

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:11 AM
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Question Fuel filter problems

Hi There,

This might be of interest to budding WVO's.

During the course of converting a Mazda 2.5 Turbo (indirect injection, Zexel rotary IP) I had trouble getting the 12volt fuel pump (Holley Blue - vane type) to work consistently.

To give it a helping hand I decided to place the WVO return line before the pump (and WVO filter). The assumption being that the return lines hot WVO would make the pump perform better and allow the WVO to pass through the filter easier, thereby further aiding the pump.

Big mistake:

My fuel filter is a standard 'glass bowl' unit available from any diesel/hydraulic shop. The filter cartridge sits between the upper housing and the glass bowl and contains what looks like pleated paper or cardboard. The same model has had over 1000 litres of cold WVO (pre-filtered to 1 micron) gone through it without a cartridge change in my Toyota BJ42.

However, in the Mazda after only a few hundred kilometers with the return line in front of the pump/filter, the paper in the cartridge started to disintegrate and bits of fluffy paper mache blocked the metal mesh filter in the IP, thus stalling the engine.

According to the filter supplier these diesel filter cartridges are NOT suitable for HOT liquids, diesel or otherwise! They suggested to use engine oil filters instead, which are obviously designed to take hot oil.

If any of your guys/girls are running hot oil through their filters, please post a reply here - I'b be interested to know how you fared/what filter you use, etc.

Best regards,
Kenny
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:06 AM
---fucking--bang---
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Default wtf

..... i think you are getting ripped,there should be an engineering firm in your area i cant see why you couldnt get a machinest to make you a new plug,im sure it wouldnt cost you more than 90 bucks to get done
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